Tbilisi Travel BlogBy A.R.Arthur

Steps etched into mountains, incensed air fragrant and an identity pulled between East & West make Tbilisi a city of contrasts. Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia is, much like the rest of the country, arcane*. A sense of primordial continuity is evident in the simple walks down the street that are illuminated by signs in the Georgian language which, in itself is extremely old.

A sense of national and social identity is tied to religious identity. In essence what it means to be Georgian is tied to the Georgian Orthodox Church and its maintenance of both the language, culture and history of the Georgian people. In the 2030s Georgia will surpass 1700 years of Christendom from the acceptance of the religion by the then Georgian royal family through Saint Nino.

Whilst the capital's main attractions can be visited easily in one day, I would encourage you to spread them out over 2-3 days to allow for more exploration time.

Shopping & Food

Whilst shopping in Georgia isn't all that, think post communism hold over, it does offer some great Vintage & thrifting clothes options as well as markets like the Dezerter Market and boutique shops like Chemi Suli perfumerie which offer exquisite inclusions to your souvenir haul.

I also enjoyed Bazari Orbeleani as they had different restaurants, a Carrefour and even a few food based souvenir shops which were very reasonably priced. I got some jams, postcards and spices here to bring back.

The dry Bridge market is also a nice experience to view antiques, posters, and all manner of old knick knacks. Underneath, in the park, see a variety of artists and their work on sale. I bought 1 painting for GEL100 though ive seen them range in price and size across the city from 30-100 generally.

Other cool shopping finds include Dezerter Vintage where I bought a jacket and shirt.

Now to food, I've heard mixed commentary on food in Tbilisi. However, I enjoyed everything I tried. Consider having red wine ice cream before or after entering the botanical gardens (GEL 4 a ticket/ GEL 5 for ice cream).

As a traveller, I tend to stick to my usual intermittent fasting for the most part during the day so most of my meals were ordered in dinners. The best recommended Khachapuri ( cheese bread to put it simply) & Kinkali (Georgian Dumplings) can be ordered in via the Wolt app. You can also try a variety of restaurants and bakeries as you walk. The more local the better. The more worn down and hole in the wall the Bakery looks, the better!

As it was a scorcher when I went (early October). I'd recommend trying Georgian Wine at night so you don't dehydrate yourself. All the wine in Georgia is amazing. I was told on good authority that Georgian's actually drink 3-4 liters of white wine in a spread out session. I was told this isn't possible with red wine due to the compounds within it.

If you go when it's hot definitely stop at tea.

The borjomi canned lemonades from pear to tarragon flavour are insanely delicious.

Transport & Services Do not let people in the Airport try to get you in their car. They will overcharge you. I took a Bolt and ignored all the hassling and agitation with my headphones in. I was told by locals that sometimes these scams amount to 10× the price of the actual Bolt car ride cost. Bolt (the taxi app) is relatively cheap here with rides costing typically £1.50-5 at most. There is public transport but beyond the funicular, I would recommend walking and taxis over navigating the Georgian language and transport system which is barely connected to the outer areas of the city with ease.

I had massages daily at Savvy Massage (address) and each time you go you get a 10GEL discount. All services were great and the staff care about you having the best experience

There are some great tours in Georgia throughout the country from Tbilisi and within the capital. I particularly enjoyed the night tour of the chronicles of Georgia and the main Church and had an amazing experience with https://www.instagram.com/ georgian_welcometours? igsh=MXA4NmtxbnpoYXBsZw==. Nicholas and Tutti are very frank, knowledgable, ambitious and talented tours guides that actually give a f***. They are also on Get Your Guide. Book on whatsapp directly: +995 579 09 24 47 (very affordable tours)

Tips & Tricks

Really check out the weather in advance and plan accordingly.

Don't jam pack your days to allow for greater exploration and some down time as it is a lot of walking.

Bring some cash for street vendors, markets etc but many many places take Google pay and card. Some actively asked and 1 drink place at Bazari Orbeleani only accepted card payment.

If you're into massages, I recommend Savy Thai Massage. Especially the foot massage. Check them out here https://share.google/ rhBxHkB2EkRO7rmLo

Mizuri park at night is a wondrous, safe, well lit and has lots of seating areas for late night chats. Vake Park is also gorgeous and large. The walking paths around the Mother of Georgia statue also provide further greenspaces to explore.

Hotel recommendation

I recommend About Sololaki but beware, they don't offer AC after October and switch to heating access only. I preferred the room with the balcony I had for 1 night over the room without though both were equally spacious and the front desk staff were very helpful. A good location although some Bolts parked on the street lower than it. Very nice views as well and a commendable breakfast buffet that even has an outside smoking area!

All in all, Tbilisi is a city that is both European and not, reflecting the rich and diverse nature of conquest, monarchy, oppression and at one point, an empire. Older Tbilisi natives can be less friendly, speak less English and come across as more kurt whilst the youth felt far more open to broad candour and presented genuine interest in those visiting their homeland.

5 Positives

1. People, particularly young people will chat with you and be generally interested.

2. Affordability.

3. Cheap Bolts.

4. Lots to explore.

5. Pretty safe at night and otherwise. I saw women and folks from all walks of life out and about after 11pm. 5 Negatives

1. Some bouts of strange hyper masculinity with men purposefully blocking the way and getting in front of you.

2. Not all smoking rooms at TBS are free access which is pretty shocking. Buy a water or drink if they tell u that after u go in like me. It's still an over priced airport drink but at least it's a lot less in GEL.

3. If random old people stop you for money or if you're feeding many of the stray dogs and cats, don't engage or let them take the food from you. The whole city feeds them but sometimes when they clock a tourist, the money receptors go off. This also happened in the airport waiting to check in.

4. Make sure you carefully choose where you stay depending on area. Some are more difficult to access than others if you have a disability. Some areas do have a bit of a sewage scent problem. But this arose randomly across the city in general.

5. The traffic can be rancid at rush hour times so keep that in mind. Particularly in the early evening.